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Russian kale with flat toothed leaves
Brassicaceae
Organic stem vegetable seeds
Organic 'White Russian' kale
Brassica napus
Product code : BIOVO-0171
'White Russian' is a Russian kale with flat silvery to blue-green foliage, white veins, and softly toothed margins. Taller than 'Red Russian', it forms an open rosette providing tender leaves for baby harvest and cooking. Mature leaves are generally ready in approximately 50 to 60 days, after which outer foliage may be picked progressively without cutting the centre. Natural cool-weather tolerance extends harvest from spring into fall, and a light frost often improves sweetness. Sow in succession, maintain steady moisture, and protect young plants with insect netting where flea beetles or cabbage butterflies are active. Harvest the outer leaves first and refrigerate them promptly.
- Exposure
- Full sun to partial shade
- Life cycle
- Biennial grown as an annual
Discover the plant
Common nameRussian kale
FamilyBrassicaceae
GenusBrassica
Speciesnapus
CultivarWhite Russian
TypeRussian kale with flat toothed leaves
Botanical nameBrassica napus
Reproducible seedsYes
Organic 'White Russian' kale (Brassica napus) is a Russian-type kale with flat silvery to blue-green foliage, prominent white veins, and softly toothed margins. Taller than 'Red Russian', it forms an open elegant rosette whose young leaves are especially tender. Pale colouring adds contrast to vegetable gardens and edible beds. Leaves may be steamed, sautéed, braised, added to soup, or harvested young for salad. The open form makes individual outer leaves easy to see and pick while preserving the central growing point for continued production. Refrigerate harvested foliage promptly.
Direct-sow as soon as soil can be worked in spring, or start plants four to six weeks before transplanting. For fall harvest, sow again from late June into early August according to region. Place in full sun or light partial shade in fertile, mature-compost-enriched, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil. Space plants approximately 30–45 cm for mature leaves and more closely for baby leaves cut early. Maintain steady moisture, mulch after establishment, and install insect netting at planting where flea beetles or cabbage butterflies are present. Water transplants immediately and keep their root balls evenly moist during establishment. Weed shallowly around roots.
Sources generally place mature-leaf harvest around 50 to 60 days after direct sowing, while baby leaves may be taken earlier. Harvest outer leaves first while leaving the central growing point intact so the plant produces for several weeks. Light frost often improves sweetness and texture; harvest before prolonged freezing or drying winds damage the leaves. Inspect leaf undersides regularly for caterpillars and eggs, rotate Brassica crops for three to four years, and remove diseased debris. Wash harvested leaves carefully, refrigerate them promptly, and discard every slimy or mouldy portion. Keep the basket shaded outdoors.
Sowing guide
It all startswith a seed.
Sowing depth
Approximately 1 to 2 cm (3/8 to 3/4 in)
Spacing / density
Thin to approximately 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in), with 30 to 45 cm (12 to 18 in) between rows
Germination temperature
Approximately 10 to 24 °C (50 to 75.2 °F)
Germination time
Approximately 7 to 10 days; cool soil may place emergence near the slower end of the range.
Sowing period
Early spring as soon as soil can be worked; late summer for an autumn harvest
Propagation
Direct sowing or indoor sowing three to four weeks before transplanting
Growing method
How to grow kale from seed indoors: 'White Russian' kale. Sow approximately 0.5–1 cm deep in fine soil or mix kept moist. For transplanting, start four to six weeks before the target date and harden plants gradually for one week. Transplant at four to six true leaves, 30–45 cm apart, keeping the root ball at the same level. For baby leaves, sow more densely and cut above the centre. Make a second sowing from late June into early August for fall. Water immediately, protect from flea beetles, and inspect foliage regularly. Keep the seedbed evenly moist until emergence and thin without disturbing the roots of retained seedlings. Install insect netting over hoops before flea beetles or cabbage butterflies arrive, sealing every edge. Mulch after establishment, water at soil level, and harvest outer leaves first. For continuous picking, sow a small amount every two or three weeks in spring, then begin again in summer for fall. After light frost, pick only firm healthy leaves. Refrigerate harvest promptly and wash thoroughly before preparation. Remove yellow or badly damaged foliage so airflow remains open around the centre. Label every sowing date. During sowing and cultivation, inspect Organic 'White Russian' kale regularly and adjust care to its actual stage of growth.
Soil and care
The right care,at the right time.
Soil pH
Approximately 6.0 to 6.8
Care level
Easy
Watering
Keep the seedbed consistently moist until emergence, using a gentle stream so seed is not displaced. After establishment, water deeply when the top 2–3 cm begins to dry so roots grow downward rather than remain at the surface. Irregular moisture makes foliage tougher, increases bitterness, and may slow regrowth after picking. Mulch once soil has warmed to limit evaporation and splashing. Water at soil level in the morning, avoid unnecessary wet foliage, and check containers daily during hot or windy periods.
Soil type
Prepare fertile deep soil enriched with mature compost, well drained yet able to hold steady moisture. Loose loam supports vigorous roots and continuous tender-leaf production; poor sand dries too quickly and compact clay deprives roots of air. Aim for approximately pH 6.0–7.0. Do not lime without a test: a slightly higher pH may reduce clubroot risk, but excessive correction unbalances nutrients. Avoid beds recently occupied by diseased Brassicas and maintain a three- to four-year rotation.
Fertilization
With mature leaves ready in approximately 50 to 60 days and baby leaves available earlier, plan nutrition for steady foliage production. Incorporate mature compost before sowing and base additional feeding on a soil test or label directions. Kale uses nitrogen steadily to renew foliage, but excessive amounts create soft growth and may delay cold acclimation. In moderately fertile soil, apply balanced fertilizer at planting, then, if leaves pale after several harvests, use one small side-dressed nitrogen dose followed by watering. Never add boron without a confirmed deficiency because the margin between need and toxicity is narrow. Stop late feeding before severe cold.
Moisture
Evenly moist soil without saturation
Seasonal care
Seasonal care for 'White Russian' kale. In spring, immediately protect seedlings from flea beetles with tightly sealed insect netting. Weed without damaging shallow roots, thin to final spacing, and mulch once soil has warmed. During summer, pick outer leaves, water steadily, and inspect leaf undersides for eggs and caterpillars. In fall, remove yellow leaves and leave the centre intact after light frosts. At the end of the crop, remove diseased plants and avoid composting heavily infected tissue. Also monitor heat: light afternoon shade and mulch reduce summer stress without replacing deep watering. After each picking, remove damaged leaves without cutting the centre. Loosely stake an unusually tall plant in a windy site. Before severe cold, harvest a reserve of sound leaves because no precise minimum temperature is guaranteed. During thaws, vent protective fabric briefly to prevent persistent condensation. Wash harvested leaves, dry them, and refrigerate promptly. Record sowing and first-harvest dates to adjust successions to your microclimate. Clean reusable containers before the next season and replace mix that held a diseased plant. Check netting after storms, repair gaps immediately, and check that foliage does not press tightly against the mesh. Maintain clear paths so repeated harvest never compacts wet soil around roots. Remove volunteer Brassicas and sanitize tools before moving from a diseased bed to a healthy one. Label every sowing and record the first harvest date. Keep paths clear so repeated picking never compacts wet soil around roots.
Container growing
A garden,within reach.
Recommended pot size
At least 25 to 30 cm (10 to 12 in) deep and approximately 5 to 7 L per plant
Growing 'White Russian' kale in containers. Choose a container at least 30–40 cm deep and approximately 30 cm wide per plant with numerous drainage holes. Use rich but airy potting mix amended with mature compost and place in sun or light partial shade. Water as soon as the surface begins to dry because a restricted root ball loses moisture quickly. Apply diluted fertilizer according to label directions after several harvests if colour pales. Pick outer leaves and leave the centre growing. In hot summer weather, move the container into some afternoon shade. Allow one plant per usable volume so air moves around the rosette and leaves reach full size. Raise the container slightly for free drainage, empty every saucer, and rotate the pot weekly for even growth. A thin mulch limits drying without touching the centre. Add a small hoop covered with insect netting where caterpillars or flea beetles occur. Harvest after dew dries, wash leaves, and refrigerate promptly. In fall, move the container near a bright wall to reduce wind without placing it where roof runoff collects. Remove yellow foliage and check drainage after heavy rain. Start a younger pot in midsummer when a long fall harvest is desired.
Bloom and dimensions
Its place,in your garden.
Mature height
Approximately 60 to 90 cm (24 to 36 in) depending on the length of the growing season
Width / spread
Approximately 45 to 60 cm (18 to 24 in)
Flower color
Yellow
Foliage color
Green to blue-green
Foliage type
Broad blue-green leaves borne on long petioles
Growth rate
Moderate
Growth habit
Open upright rosette taller than 'Red Russian'
Fragrance
Mild cabbage flavour with a turnip-like crisp texture
Bloom period
Grown for leaves, 'White Russian' normally does not flower during its first season. A plant that survives winter may elongate and produce clusters of small yellow Brassica flowers the following spring. Bolting gradually reduces leaf quality. Harvest the final tender foliage before buds open fully, or allow one healthy plant to bloom for insects where possible self-seeding is acceptable. Flowering does not indicate a disease, but it marks the transition from leaf production to reproduction.
Fruiting
After second-year flowering, narrow seedpods may form and contain seed. This stage is not desired for leaf production because foliage becomes tougher and the plant directs energy toward reproduction. Cut flower stalks before pods develop to limit volunteer seedlings, or allow only healthy plants to dry when seed saving is permitted and clearly identified. Keep harvested seed separate from edible leaves and discard every mouldy or damaged portion.
Days to maturity
Approximately 50 to 60 days for mature leaves; baby leaves earlier
Harvest
Harvest baby leaves once they reach a useful size, or wait approximately 50 to 60 days for mature foliage. Cut outer leaves 2–3 cm from the stem without injuring the central bud or removing more than one-third of foliage at once. Harvest weekly during active growth. Choose firm fresh unblemished leaves and cool promptly. Wash only before use and refrigerate in a perforated bag. After light frost, taste before harvesting more because flavour often becomes sweeter.
Garden associations
In goodcompany.
Companion plants
Lettuce, radish, and low herbs may temporarily occupy the edge while kale is young provided they do not compete with roots or block airflow around the rosette. Onions, beets, or peas in a neighbouring row may share the garden when every crop retains its spacing, water, and light. These combinations mainly organize space and provide no guaranteed pest protection. Avoid crowding with other Brassicas that share several diseases and insects, then maintain a three- to four-year rotation. Remove companions that begin shading the centre or making harvest difficult.
Plants to avoid
Strawberry, climbing bean, tomato
Recipe idea
From the gardento your plate.
Edible parts
Leaves and tender young stems, always washed well; older stems are best removed or cooked longer
'White Russian' kale in the kitchen. 'White Russian' sautéed kale — Wash 300 g sound leaves thoroughly, remove the thickest stems, and slice foliage. Heat 15 ml oil in a large pan, add one garlic clove for 30 seconds, then kale while still slightly damp. Cover for two minutes, uncover, and sauté three to five minutes until tender. Add lemon, pepper, and a small pinch of salt. Serve hot. Refrigerate leftovers within two hours and discard any slimy, mouldy, or abnormal-smelling leaf. For a heartier version, add cooked chickpeas or warmed white beans during the final two minutes. Taste before salting because added ingredients may already be seasoned. Tender stems may be finely chopped and cooked one minute before the leaves; compost only sound portions that are too fibrous. Use a clean cutting board, wash hands, and prevent cross-contamination with raw animal foods. Cool any extra portion quickly in a shallow container and reheat it thoroughly only once.
Frequently asked questions
Your questions,answered.
How does 'White Russian' differ from 'Red Russian'?
Both belong to the Russian kale group and carry relatively flat leaves with toothed margins. 'White Russian' differs through white veins, silvery to blue-green blades, and a habit generally taller than 'Red Russian', whose veins become purple. Texture and colour vary with age and cold. These differences are mainly visual and horticultural and do not prove better pest resistance without an official comparative trial. In the garden, compare vein colour and the habit of mature plants. Label rows at sowing because young seedlings may resemble one another before their distinctive traits become obvious. Harvest comparisons should use leaves of similar age and exposure.
When should 'White Russian' be harvested?
Take baby leaves at approximately 8–12 cm, or wait around 50 to 60 days for mature foliage. Always begin at the bottom of the plant and leave the central cluster intact. Moderate weekly picking provides better continuity than severe defoliation. After light frost leaves often become sweeter, but harvest before damage from prolonged freezing, drying wind, or repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Wash leaves, dry them, and refrigerate promptly in a ventilated container. Use slightly marked leaves first and discard every slimy, mouldy, or abnormal-smelling portion. Pick after dew dries and keep the basket shaded. Continue watering regularly after harvest so the centre can produce new foliage.
Is 'White Russian' kale cold tolerant?
Like other Russian kales, it tolerates cool weather and light frost when gradually acclimated. This is not a guaranteed minimum temperature. Survival depends on plant size, soil moisture, wind, snow cover, and speed of cooling. Protect with row cover during sharp drops, mulch soil without burying the centre, and harvest a reserve before forecast severe cold. After frost, wait for leaves to thaw before handling to prevent tearing. Pick only firm healthy tissue and refrigerate promptly. Shelter from drying wind often protects quality more effectively than late feeding. Check the central bud before leaving plants outdoors. Remove every watery or translucent leaf after a damaging freeze.
How can leaves be protected without insecticide?
Install insect netting over hoops immediately after sowing or transplanting and seal its edges carefully. Check that no eggs or caterpillars are already trapped underneath. Hand-pick discovered caterpillars, remove volunteer Brassicas, and rotate crops. Kale does not require insects to form leaves, so netting may remain during growth. Open only for maintenance and close immediately. Inspect netting after wind and rain because a small opening admits butterflies. Leaves should not remain pressed against the mesh. If an infestation appears, identify the pest before choosing a registered product and follow its label exactly. Remove damaged leaves when practical. Wash every harvested leaf carefully before preparation.
Can 'White Russian' be grown in a pot?
Yes. Allow one stable container at least 30–40 cm deep and approximately 30 cm wide per plant, fitted with several drainage holes. A wider box retains moisture longer and may share space with a few young lettuces early in the season. Use rich well-drained potting mix, then water when the top few centimetres begin drying without allowing water to stand in the saucer. Rotate the pot when light is uneven and feed lightly after several harvests only if foliage pales. Pick outer leaves regularly while preserving the centre. If the plant becomes tall or wind-exposed, place the pot beside a bright shelter. Remove lettuces before they compete with roots or block airflow around the rosette.
Wildlife and pets
Life,around your plants.
Supporting wildlife
When a plant overwinters and flowers in its second year, small yellow blossoms may provide nectar and pollen to various insects. Kale does not need pollinators for a leaf harvest, so insect netting may remain closed during vegetative growth. Remove flower stalks when foliage is the priority, or allow only one healthy plant to bloom where self-seeding will not cause a problem.
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