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Slender peacock orchid stems rise above sword-shaped green foliage

Summer-flowering corms Iridaceae

Fragrant corms for summer bloom and bouquets

Van Noort

Peacock orchid

Name: Peacock orchid
Brand: Van Noort
SKU: VAN-325-120-01
Price: 4.99 CAD
Availability: OutOfStock

Gladiolus murielae

Peacock orchid, now botanically classified as Gladiolus murielae, produces ivory-white, purple-throated star flowers in late summer on slender stems approximately 60 cm (24 in.) tall. Their sweet fragrance intensifies toward evening and enriches borders, containers, and bouquets. This Van Noort package contains exactly 10 corms. Plant them in sun, warm soil, and excellent drainage after the final frost. Because the plant is hardy only near Zone 8, corms must be lifted before freezing weather, dried, and stored frost-free for replanting the following spring across colder Canadian regions. Its narrow footprint makes grouped planting easy, while evening scent rewards placement near outdoor living areas.

Sold as 10 corms

4 ⁹⁹$

Common namePeacock orchid

FamilyIridaceae

GenusGladiolus

Speciesmurielae

TypeSummer-flowering corms

Botanical nameGladiolus murielae

Peacock orchid (Gladiolus murielae) is a tender cormous perennial valued for ivory-white, star-shaped flowers marked by a purple to burgundy throat. Slender stems rise above narrow, sword-shaped green leaves and carry several lightly nodding flowers in late summer. Their sweet fragrance becomes especially noticeable toward evening. Each plant reaches approximately 60 cm (24 in.) high and 10 cm (4 in.) wide. Hardy only near Zone 8, it is treated as a summer bulb and lifted before frost across colder Canadian regions. Stored corms can be replanted for another elegant display the following year.

Plant corms in spring once soil is warm and all danger of frost has passed. Position each point upward, 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.) deep and 10 cm (4 in.) apart, in full sun or light partial shade. Fertile, loose, freely draining soil encourages strong stems. Water consistently through active growth without saturating the ground, and feed moderately after emergence and again when buds begin forming. In cool regions, starting corms indoors four weeks before outdoor planting advances their naturally late flowering season. Harden shoots gradually and avoid disturbing developing roots during transplanting.

Arrange all ten corms in a ribbon or cluster so the delicate flowers create a visible statement in a border, white garden, or large container. Their fragrant spikes complement dahlias, cannas, salvias, verbenas, and ornamental grasses without making the composition heavy. Cut stems when one or two flowers have opened for long-lasting arrangements, but allow foliage to yellow after bloom so corms rebuild reserves. Before the first frost, lift, dry, and store them in a cool, frost-free place. Every part is ornamental rather than edible and is toxic to pets if swallowed. Keep stored corms in a labelled, closed container.

In the garden

Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Life cycle: Tender perennial grown as an annual in colder Canadian regions
Hardiness: Zone 8; grow as an annual or overwinter frost-free in colder zones

Sowing guide

Sowing & germination

Sowing depth

8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.)

Spacing / density

10 cm (4 in.) between corms

Sowing period

Late May to June in colder Canadian regions, once soil reaches approximately 12°C

Propagation

Corms and separation of cormlets during dormancy

Growing method

Wait until nights generally remain above 10 °C and soil has warmed before planting, usually from late May into early June in colder Canadian regions. To advance bloom, start corms indoors three or four weeks earlier in individual pots under bright light. Outdoors, choose full sun or light partial shade and loosen soil to 25 cm (10 in.). Incorporate mature compost, plus coarse sand or fine gravel if drainage is slow. Set each corm 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.) deep with the point upward, leaving 10 cm (4 in.) between them. Cluster all ten rather than scattering them because the slender stems read more clearly together. Water after planting, then moderately until emergence. Once leaves appear, maintain consistent moisture and add light mulch that does not trap water against shoots. Feed at half strength during foliage development and again as buds form. Support groups discreetly in windy positions. Remove faded flowers without cutting leaves. After bloom, reduce watering gradually and allow foliage to yellow. Lift corms before frost, dry them, remove soil, and store them somewhere cool, dry, and frost-free. Discard soft specimens before storage and label the sound corms clearly. Inspect the stored group monthly so one damaged corm cannot spread decay.

Soil and care

Soil & care

Soil pH

6.0 to 7.0

Minimum temperature

Not frost tolerant; lift corms before temperatures reach 0°C

Care level

Moderate

Watering

After planting, water to settle the soil, then wait for shoots before increasing irrigation. During active growth and flowering, provide approximately 2.5 cm (1 in.) of water weekly when rain is absent. Water at soil level in the morning and let the surface drain. Reduce moisture gradually after bloom so corms mature before lifting. Consistent moisture supports even spikes. Containers may need more frequent checks during hot, windy weather.

Soil type

Light, fertile, freely draining soil enriched with mature compost is ideal. Sandy loam warms promptly and releases excess water after rain. Avoid compact clay, waterlogged hollows, and fresh manure. In containers, use quality potting mix amended with perlite and keep every drainage hole completely unobstructed throughout the growing season. Warm soil also advances the naturally late flowering season. Renew container mix yearly to prevent compaction and salt accumulation.

Fertilization

Incorporate mature compost before planting. When shoots reach 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in.), apply balanced slow-release fertilizer or a half-strength liquid feed. Repeat once as buds begin forming. Avoid excess nitrogen, which promotes foliage and weak stems at the expense of flowers and the corm’s stored energy. Stop feeding after bloom so foliage can mature naturally and corms can enter dormancy with firm, well-ripened tissues.

Moisture

Average moisture during growth; rapid drainage and drier conditions while corms mature and remain in storage.

Seasonal care

In spring, sort stored corms and discard any that are soft, mouldy, or completely shrivelled. Remove loose old tunics without injuring buds. Start them in pots near late April if earlier bloom is desired, or wait until outdoor soil becomes warm. Mark the planting area so late shoots are not disturbed. During summer, water deeply when the surface dries, weed by hand, and maintain a thin mulch. Apply balanced fertilizer at low strength during active growth, then stop once flowers open. Support stems in windy corridors and remove faded blooms above the foliage. For arrangements, harvest a spike when its first bud opens while leaving every leaf intact. Watch for thrips, slugs, and spider mites; remove severely affected tissue and avoid wetting foliage in the evening. In fall, reduce water after the final flowers. Let leaves yellow naturally, then lift corms before the first frost. Cut stems to 3 cm (1 in.), dry everything for one to two weeks in a ventilated area, and separate cormlets. Brush off soil, label Murielae, and place corms in paper bags or trays of dry peat. Through winter, keep them near 7 to 10 °C, in darkness and protected from rodents. Inspect monthly and remove any rot immediately to protect the remaining lot. Do not store damp corms or seal them in plastic. Record which groups flowered best so the strongest corms can be replanted together next spring.

Container growing

Recommended pot size

35 to 40 cm (14 to 16 in.) wide and at least 30 cm (12 in.) deep for 10 corms

For ten corms, use a heavy container at least 35 to 40 cm (14 to 16 in.) wide and 30 cm (12 in.) deep. Select a pot with several holes and raise it slightly so water drains freely. Blend quality potting mix with mature compost and approximately one-quarter perlite or pumice. Arrange corms 8 cm (3 in.) deep and 7 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.) apart with points upward, then water once. Keep the container in sun and sheltered from prevailing wind. Before emergence, let the mix dry somewhat between applications; afterward, check several times weekly and water when the upper 2 to 3 cm (0.8 to 1.2 in.) is dry. Feed at half strength every three weeks until flowers open. Insert a support ring before stems lengthen and rotate the pot regularly. Remove spent flowers but retain all leaves. Once foliage yellows, stop watering. Move the entire pot into a dry, dark, frost-free space, or lift, dry, and store corms separately. The following spring, replace at least one-third of the mix, sort cormlets, and replant only firm corms. Separate vigorous cormlets for growing on in smaller nursery pots. Never overwinter the container outdoors where repeated freezing and thawing can destroy the corms.

Bloom and dimensions

Size, flowering & harvest

Mature height

60 cm (24 in.)

Width / spread

10 cm (4 in.)

Flower color

Ivory white with a purple to burgundy throat

Foliage color

Medium green

Foliage type

Deciduous, strap-like, and sword-shaped

Growth rate

Moderate

Growth habit

Upright, slender, and architectural

Fragrance

Sweet floral fragrance, strongest toward evening

Bloom period

From late August through September, ivory-white, star-shaped flowers open successively along slender spikes. Every bloom carries a purple to burgundy throat and releases sweet fragrance, especially toward evening. An indoor start and warm site advance flowering. Cut spikes when the first bud opens for arrangements, and leave the foliage intact so corms rebuild reserves. Remove rain-damaged blooms to protect later buds.

Fruiting

After pollination, elongated capsules may develop, but seed production is rarely the aim of this ornamental planting. A short growing season may not allow seeds to mature. Keep foliage until it yellows to rebuild the corms for overwintering. Remove capsules if seed collection is not wanted.

Harvest

Lift corms after the foliage yellows and before frost.

Garden associations

Companion plants & uses

Companion plants

Choose dahlias, compact cannas, salvias, verbenas, cosmos, zinnias, and fine grasses that share a preference for sun, warmth, and draining soil. Purple or bronze foliage echoes the dark flower throat, while blue blooms provide a cool contrast. Avoid bog plants and dense groundcovers that trap moisture around corms or complicate fall lifting and sorting. Compact Joe-Pye weed and late black-eyed Susans extend the September display around the spikes. Leave open soil around each cluster so lifting tools can enter without damaging neighbouring crowns, and maintain clear airflow during humid weather.

Garden use

Plant all ten corms as a group in a sunny border, white garden, fragrance garden, or large container. Their vertical outline fits between broader perennials and extends bloom into late summer. Spikes are excellent for bouquets and continue opening buds in a vase. Position another group near a patio to enjoy the evening fragrance while keeping the toxic plant beyond the reach of pets. In colder regions, start corms in pots to ensure flowering before frost. Their fragrance is most rewarding where people pass during late afternoon and evening.

Frequently asked questions

How deep and in which direction should the corms be planted?

Set each corm 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.) deep, with the small point or bud facing upward and the flatter base downward. Leave approximately 10 cm (4 in.) between units and cluster all ten for a visible effect. If orientation is difficult to recognize, place the corm on its side; the shoot will turn upward naturally. Wait until soil is warm and frost danger has passed. In heavy ground, add fine gravel or plant on a slight mound. Water after planting, then only moderately until leaves appear to reduce the risk of rot. Mark the group clearly after planting because emergence may be later than nearby annuals.

Why does my peacock orchid fail to bloom before frost?

This species flowers naturally late and may lack sufficient heat during a short summer. Start corms indoors three or four weeks before planting, using small pots under bright light. Transplant without disturbing roots once nights stay above 10 °C. Choose the warmest, sunniest garden position, ideally beside a wall or stone edge. Excess nitrogen produces abundant leaves but delays buds, so feed moderately. Keep soil moist during active growth without saturating it. Small corms or cormlets may also require more than one season before producing a complete flowering spike. Preserve their foliage and store them carefully so they can gain size.

How should corms be stored through a Canadian winter?

After flowering, reduce watering and let foliage yellow so stored energy returns to the corm. Lift before the first frost, cut stems to approximately 3 cm (1 in.), and gently shake off soil. Dry corms for one to two weeks in a ventilated location away from direct sun. Remove very loose tunics and separate cormlets without injuring the base. Store corms in a paper bag or ventilated box with dry peat, near 7 to 10 °C. Label the plant, protect it from rodents, and inspect monthly so any soft or mouldy piece is removed immediately. Keep the material dry but not exposed to heated household air.

How can strong stems be produced for bouquets?

Provide at least six hours of sun, fertile soil without excess nitrogen, and consistent moisture while stems elongate. In a windy site, install a support ring early, before spikes bend. Harvest when the first bud shows colour or begins opening. Work in the morning with a clean tool and leave several leaves on the plant so the corm retains vigour. Recut the base under water, remove only leaves that would be submerged, and place the stem in a clean vase. Change water every two days; upper buds generally continue opening and releasing fragrance. Keep the arrangement away from direct heat and ripening fruit.

Is peacock orchid safe around pets?

No. Gladiolus murielae belongs to the same genus as garden gladiolus and should be considered toxic to dogs, cats, and some other animals if swallowed. Corms present the greatest concern, but leaves and flowers are not intended for consumption. Keep packages, stored corms, and planting debris in closed containers beyond reach. Collect dropped pieces during cleanup and avoid a site where pets routinely dig. If ingestion is suspected and drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, or abdominal pain develops, contact a veterinarian promptly and provide the name Gladiolus murielae. Do not induce vomiting without professional instructions. Wear gloves if handling the sap irritates your skin.

Wildlife and pets

Wildlife & precautions

Reported toxicity

Yes

Supporting wildlife

Star-shaped flowers may attract daytime butterflies and some long-tongued pollinators, while evening fragrance signals blooms to insects active near dusk. This contribution is complementary within a diverse garden. Avoid insecticides, retain several uncut spikes, and grow nearby nectar plants with more accessible flowers to support a broader range of visitors.