Name: ‘Gold Fever’ Oriental Lily
Brand: Van Noort
SKU: VAN-335-120-15
Price: 5.49 CAD
Availability: OutOfStock

Sale Sold out

‘Gold Fever’ Oriental lily in bloom, showing large pale lemon to golden-yellow outward-facing flowers with dark orange anthers and fine reddish freckles

Ornamental bulbs Liliaceae

Ornamental bulbs

Van Noort

Lilium

From bulb to bloom

Common name‘Gold Fever’ Oriental lily

FamilyLiliaceae

GenusLilium

CultivarGold Fever

Bulb typeOrnamental bulbs

Botanical nameLilium

Quantity per pack1 bulb

‘Gold Fever’ Oriental Lily (Lilium ‘Gold Fever’) brightens summer with large pale lemon to golden-yellow flowers facing outward. A slightly deeper centre surrounds dark orange anthers, while fine reddish freckles add delicate contrast. Sweet fragrance delivers the classic appeal of an Oriental lily. The Van Noort package contains one size 16/18 bulb. Its upright stem reaches approximately 80 cm, while the plant occupies about 40 cm in width. This moderate height suits borders, fragrant gardens, arrangements, and substantial containers placed near an outdoor relaxation area. The luminous colouring remains easy to combine with white, blue, purple, or burgundy companion plants.

Plant the bulb in spring with its point upward, approximately 15 cm deep, then allow 40 cm around the plant. Choose full sun or bright partial shade in fertile, humus-rich, moist, slightly acidic, very well-drained soil. Water deeply after planting and maintain even moisture without standing water. Low perennials or thin mulch keep the base cool. The 80 cm stem rarely needs support except in a very windy position or after heavy rain. Van Noort lists Zone 3 hardiness and suitability for Zones 3 to 10. Mark the location so the dormant bulb remains protected during seasonal garden work.

In spring, protect the emerging shoot from slugs and inspect foliage regularly for scarlet lily beetles, eggs, and larvae. Remove them by hand whenever practical. After flowering, cut only faded blooms and developing pods. Retain the complete stem and every green leaf so they can replenish the bulb, then cut them to ground level after natural yellowing. For an arrangement, harvest one stem when the first bud opens and remove anthers carefully. This true lily in the genus Lilium is extremely dangerous to cats: flowers, pollen, leaves, stems, bulb, and vase water must remain completely beyond their reach. Contact a veterinarian immediately after possible exposure.

Light and life cycle

In the garden

Exposure: Full sun to partial shade
Life cycle: Bulbous perennial
Hardiness: Zones 4 to 8

Planting and establishment

Planting guide

Planting & establishment

Spacing / density

space plants or bulbs 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in.).

Planting period

In spring, after the risk of frost has passed

Propagation

Separation of offsets during dormancy; seedlings are not true to the cultivar

Growing method

Unpack the bulb upon arrival and plant it promptly when it is firm and healthy. Choose a permanent position in sun or bright partial shade. Loosen soil to 25 or 30 cm and incorporate mature compost without creating a moisture-holding layer beneath the bulb. Set the point upward approximately 15 cm deep, then allow 30 to 40 cm of space. Firm gently and water deeply. Keep soil moist during rooting, never saturated. Install discreet support before the stem lengthens in windy positions. Protect shoots from slugs and check regularly for scarlet lily beetles, larvae, and eggs. During flowering, water at soil level and cut only several stems, retaining as many leaves as possible. After bloom, remove faded flowers and pods but keep the complete green stem. Reduce watering as foliage yellows, then cut it to ground level once fully dry. Add light mulch after the ground freezes in exposed locations without trapping moisture over the bulb. Wear gloves and keep pollen, flowers, and debris away from cats. Mark the planting position so dormant bulbs are not damaged during later garden work. The following spring, wait until the shoot is clearly visible before cultivating near the label, then resume watering according to actual soil moisture.

Soil and care

Soil & care

Soil pH

pH 6.0 to 7.5

Moisture

Evenly moist but drained soil during growth, drier during dormancy

Care level

Easy

Watering

Water deeply after planting, then keep soil evenly moist during rooting, growth, and bud formation. Allow the surface to dry slightly between applications and irrigate at ground level in the morning. An established plant prefers less frequent deep watering to small superficial applications. Reduce water after foliage yellows and avoid winter saturation. Containers need more frequent checks, but their saucers must be emptied promptly so the bulb never remains in standing water.

Soil type

Fertile, humus-rich, moist, slightly acidic, and very well-drained soil is best. Oriental lilies appreciate loam enriched with compost or leaf mould. Loosen the area deeply for rooting and avoid hollows where water collects. In clay ground, use a raised bed or improve the complete planting volume. In alkaline ground, growing in a substantial container with a slightly acidic mix is often preferable. Dependable drainage remains essential through winter and spring thaw because persistent saturation encourages bulb rot.

Fertilization

Blend mature compost into the soil before planting. In spring, apply balanced or bulb fertilizer according to its label as shoots emerge, then again at early bud formation when soil is poor. Avoid excessive nitrogen because it produces soft stems. Stop feeding after flowering and allow foliage to rebuild reserves naturally. Keep fertilizer granules away from direct contact with the bulb and water the area after application.

Seasonal care

In early spring, remove excess mulch and locate new shoots before working the border. Protect them from slugs and install discreet support. Add a thin compost layer without deeply burying the bulb area. During growth, water at ground level when the surface begins drying. Inspect both sides of leaves several times each week for red lily beetles, eggs, and larvae. Remove them by hand and avoid treatments on open flowers. As buds form, secure the stem to its support with a soft tie. Cut faded flowers before pods develop, but retain every green leaf. After complete yellowing, cut the stem at ground level and remove diseased tissue. In fall, verify that water does not collect around the bulb. In very exposed locations, add light mulch after the ground freezes and remove it gradually in spring. Divide a clump only when flowering declines or stems become crowded. Handle pollen carefully and keep every discarded part beyond the reach of cats. Record the planting position so dormant bulbs remain protected during seasonal cleanup and nearby planting. Also monitor dry heat while buds develop: deep watering helps flowers open normally. After heavy rain, check the ties and empty any collected water from containers. If a stem develops unusual spotting or rapid decline, remove only affected tissue with a clean tool and keep it out of compost. The following spring, observe the vigour of new growth before adding fertilizer. Replace support ties that have tightened around the stem and maintain open airflow between neighbouring plants throughout the season.

Growing in containers

Container growing

Recommended pot size

container at least 25 to 30 cm (10 to 12 in.) deep, with drainage

Choose a heavy container of at least 35 to 45 L and 40 cm depth with several drainage holes. Fill it with fertile, airy potting mix enriched with compost, then set one bulb approximately 15 cm deep. Keep the point upward and preserve ample space for root development. Position the pot in sun or bright partial shade and add support at planting. Water deeply, always empty the saucer, and repeat when the surface begins drying. Feed lightly at emergence and early bud formation. Remove faded flowers but retain the stem and leaves until they yellow. In cold regions, move the dormant container to an unheated position where it remains cold without extreme freeze-thaw cycles. Keep the mix barely moist during dormancy. Repot only when the substrate compacts or offsets become crowded. Keep the pot completely away from cats, including when the plant is moved or flowers are cut. Rotate the container gradually during growth so the tall stem remains balanced without abrupt changes in light. Protect the pot from strong winds and raise it slightly so drainage holes remain open. In spring, renew the upper potting layer, inspect emerging growth, and return the container outdoors gradually after very cold nights have passed. Check support stability before buds enlarge because the mature flowering stem becomes top-heavy. A surface label should identify the cultivar throughout dormancy.

Growth and flowering

Size, flowering & harvest

Mature height

about 80 cm (31 in.)

Width / spread

10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in.)

Foliage color

Green

Foliage type

Deciduous foliage that becomes dormant after flowering

Growth rate

Moderate

Growth habit

Upright and moderately tall

Fragrance

Subtle fragrance

Bloom period

Summer flowering, generally in July and August once established. ‘Gold Fever’ carries large pale lemon to golden-yellow outward-facing flowers with a slightly deeper centre, dark orange anthers, and fine reddish freckles. Fragrance is sweet. The stem reaches approximately 80 cm. Exact timing varies with climate, planting date, and bulb establishment. A new planting may produce fewer flowers in its first season. Individual blooms generally remain attractive for an extended period, especially when protected from strong wind and overhead irrigation.

Garden companions

Garden associations

Companion plants & uses

Companion plants

Combine ‘Gold Fever’ with catmint, hardy geraniums, heucheras, phlox, yarrow, coneflowers, and fine grasses. These companions appreciate sun and drained soil while gently concealing the lily’s base. White, violet-blue, purple, or cream flowers balance its golden yellow colouring. Keep an open circle around emerging shoots so slugs and scarlet lily beetles remain visible. Avoid aggressively dividing neighbouring plants near the dormant bulb. Spring bulbs may share the area when their placement leaves enough room for the lily’s deeper roots. Late ornamental alliums add a contrasting rounded form without hiding the principal flowers.

Garden use

Place ‘Gold Fever’ in the middle or back of a border, with its base surrounded by lower perennials that keep soil cool without smothering shoots. Catmint, hardy geraniums, and heucheras highlight the golden yellow colouring, while fine grasses extend the vertical theme. Allow 30 to 40 cm around the bulb and install support in spring so it disappears beneath foliage. In a fragrant garden, choose a position near a patio only when no cat can approach the plant or fallen pollen. In a cutting garden, harvest one stem as the first bud opens and leave sufficient foliage to replenish the bulb. Afterwards, remove faded flowers without cutting the green stem. Thin mulch conserves moisture, but avoid thick layers that hold water. Place a durable label near the dormant bulb to prevent accidental damage. Combine golden yellow with white, violet, or silver for a balanced scene. In a small garden, use one stem as a vertical accent; in a larger border, repeat several bulbs in spaced groups instead of a rigid line. Keep paths wide enough for inspection and safe pollen cleanup. Watering at the base preserves flower quality and reduces splashing on foliage. After heavy rain, verify that the tall stem remains upright and that the soil drains promptly. Remove only damaged flowers while retaining healthy leaves, and adjust soft ties as the stem thickens so support never constricts growth.

Frequently asked questions

How should a Gold Fever lily bulb be planted?

Plant the bulb in spring when soil is workable. Choose full sun or bright partial shade in fertile, humus-rich, very well-drained soil. Set the point upward approximately 15 cm deep and allow 30 to 40 cm around the plant. Water deeply to settle the soil, then maintain even moisture without standing water. Install discreet support at planting in windy positions. Mark the location to protect the bulb during dormancy. A thin mulch keeps the base cool but must never trap water over the bulb. Keep emerging shoots visible so slugs and scarlet lily beetles can be detected promptly. Avoid placing concentrated fertilizer directly against the bulb scales during planting.

Can Gold Fever lily grow in a container?

Yes. Its approximately 80 cm height suits a substantial, heavy, deep container. Choose a pot holding at least 35 to 45 litres with several drainage holes, then plant one bulb approximately 15 cm deep. Use fertile, slightly acidic, airy potting mix. Place the container in sun or bright partial shade, water deeply, and always empty the saucer. Fertilize lightly at emergence and when buds begin forming. After flowering, retain the stem and leaves until they yellow. In cold regions, protect the pot from repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Keep the container and any fallen pollen completely inaccessible to cats. Check soil moisture regularly during hot weather.

How should the lily be cared for after flowering?

Remove faded flowers and developing pods so the bulb does not spend reserves producing seeds. Retain the complete stem and every green leaf because they create energy for the following display. Continue deep watering during dry periods, then reduce applications as foliage yellows. Cut the stem at ground level only after it becomes fully dry. Remove diseased tissue and verify that the position remains drained through fall. Avoid lifting the bulb every year; divide the clump only when stems become crowded or flowering declines. Mark the dormant position so later garden work does not damage the bulb. This patience is essential for maintaining a vigorous bulb over several seasons.

How can scarlet lily beetles be controlled?

Inspect emerging shoots and both sides of leaves several times weekly beginning in spring. Adult scarlet lily beetles are bright red; orange eggs occur beneath leaves, and larvae cover themselves with dark debris. Remove adults, eggs, and larvae by hand, then place them in a closed container. Check neighbouring lilies because the insect moves readily between plants. Avoid insecticides on open flowers to protect pollinators. Severely damaged foliage can weaken the bulb, so early detection is more effective than action after defoliation. Keep the ground beneath stems visible enough to notice dropped adults and damaged leaves. Clean the tool afterwards and wash your hands before handling other plants.

Why are true lilies dangerous to cats?

Every part of a true lily in the genus Lilium is extremely dangerous to cats. Leaves, flowers, stems, bulbs, and even small amounts of pollen can cause severe kidney injury; water from a vase holding lilies is also hazardous. Keep ‘Gold Fever’ completely beyond reach and do not rely on a high shelf because pollen may fall or be transferred. In a household with a cat, leave flowers in an inaccessible outdoor area and never bring a bouquet inside. If exposure is possible, contact a veterinarian immediately even when the cat does not yet show symptoms. Prompt treatment is essential, so do not wait for visible illness.