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Collar split-cupped daffodil bulb
Amaryllidaceae
‘Electrus’ Daffodil
Narcissus
‘Electrus’ Daffodil produces one upward-facing 10 cm flower with broad white petals and a rich orange-pink corona split to the base and marked green at the centre in mid-spring. The package contains 5 bulbs. Stems reach approximately 40 cm (16 in.) and suit rock gardens, borders, containers, and naturalized plantings. Plant bulbs in fall in full sun or light partial shade and fertile, freely drained soil. Hardy in Zone 3, this perennial can return for many years when foliage remains until it yellows completely. Grouped planting displays the white, orange-pink, and green colouring and the cultivar’s characteristic silhouette more effectively. A position near a path makes the flowers easy to enjoy at close range.
- Quantity
- 5 bulbs
- Exposure
- Full sun to light partial shade
Discover the plant
Common name‘Electrus’ Daffodil
FamilyAmaryllidaceae
GenusNarcissus
TypeCollar split-cupped daffodil bulb
Botanical nameNarcissus
‘Electrus’ Daffodil (Narcissus ‘Electrus’) produces one upward-facing 10 cm flower with broad white petals and a rich orange-pink corona split to the base and marked green at the centre in mid-spring. The package contains 5 bulbs. Stems reach approximately 40 cm (16 in.) and suit borders, beds, suitable containers, and bouquets when stem length permits. Hardy in Zone 3, this perennial daffodil can return for many years in fertile, freely drained soil that remains lightly moist during active growth. Grouped planting clearly displays the large collar flower with a fully split corona and white, orange-pink, and green tones. Upright green foliage combines naturally with neighbouring spring flowers.
Plant the bulbs in fall with the pointed end up, 15 cm (6 in.) deep and 12 cm (5 in.) apart. Choose full sun or light partial shade, then water deeply after planting. In spring, maintain even moisture when rainfall is insufficient without allowing water to stand. A thin layer of mature compost supports growth; avoid fertilizer rich in nitrogen. Group the bulbs for a stronger display. In containers, use a deep pot with unobstructed drainage holes and protect it from repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. Check moisture before watering again. This spacing also makes later division easier.
After flowering, remove faded blooms when seed formation is not wanted, but allow every leaf to yellow completely. The foliage rebuilds reserves needed for the following display. Reduce watering during summer dormancy and mark the position to avoid disturbing resting bulbs. Divide crowded clumps after leaves have dried, then promptly replant firm bulbs. Every part of a daffodil is harmful when eaten, so keep bulbs away from children and pets and wear gloves if your skin reacts to the sap. Condition cut daffodil stems separately before combining them with other flowers.
Planting guide
Plant well.Grow beautifully.
Planting depth
15 cm (6 in.) deep, pointed end up
Spacing / density
Space 12 cm (5 in.) apart
Growing method
Choose a sunny or lightly shaded location where water drains quickly. In fall, loosen the soil to approximately 20 cm and incorporate a modest amount of mature compost when fertility is low. Plant ‘Electrus’ daffodil bulbs 15 cm deep with the pointed end up, leaving 12 cm between them. Grouping the bulbs displays the white, orange-pink, and green colouring more effectively. Cover with soil, firm gently, and water deeply. Maintain moderate moisture until freeze-up without saturating the soil. In spring, water when rainfall is insufficient and apply a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer if needed. Remove faded flowers, but retain all foliage until it yellows completely. Reduce watering during summer dormancy. Divide crowded clumps after the leaves dry and promptly replant healthy bulbs 15 cm deep. Avoid deep cultivation around emerging shoots, and mark the dormant bulb location during summer. In containers, check moisture more frequently but never leave standing water in the saucer. During flowering, support only stems that lean after heavy rain. For vase use, harvest buds that are beginning to open and let the stems stand separately in water for several hours before combining them with other flowers. This conditioning step limits the effect of fresh daffodil sap on bouquet companions. Wear gloves when dividing crowded clumps if your skin reacts easily to plant sap.
Soil and care
The right care,at the right time.
Watering
Water deeply after planting, then moderately until freeze-up. In spring, keep the soil lightly and evenly moist during growth and flowering without saturating it. Allow natural rainfall to meet the need whenever the root zone remains moist. Gradually reduce watering as foliage yellows, and keep the bulbs relatively dry during summer dormancy. Always adjust frequency to rainfall, temperature, and drainage.
Soil type
This daffodil prefers loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Light, even moisture during active growth supports flowering, but standing water can rot the bulbs. In heavy soil, incorporate mature compost and improve the structure, or choose a raised bed. Avoid waterlogged depressions and potting mixes that remain saturated during summer dormancy. A crumbly soil also helps new roots establish in fall. Avoid compacting the soil around emerging shoots as well.
Fertilization
Incorporate a modest amount of mature compost at planting when soil fertility is low. In early spring, a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer can support growth and flowering. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which encourages leaves at the expense of flowers, and keep fresh manure away from the bulbs. Water after applying granular fertilizer so nutrients enter the active root zone. A moderate application is generally sufficient for established bulbs.
Seasonal care
In fall, plant firm, healthy bulbs before the ground freezes, then water deeply. A thin mulch layer can reduce temperature fluctuations, but remove excess material in spring so emerging shoots remain clear. When foliage appears, confirm that water drains freely and apply a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer if needed. Water only when rainfall does not maintain light moisture. During flowering, remove spent blooms to prevent unnecessary seed formation. For bouquets, harvest when buds begin opening and condition stems separately in water so their sap does not affect other flowers. After bloom, retain every leaf until it yellows completely; do not braid or tie the foliage because it needs light. Remove leaves when they pull away easily, then reduce watering. During summer dormancy, avoid excess moisture. Every three to five years, or when flowering declines, lift crowded clumps after the foliage dries. Separate offsets and promptly replant firm bulbs 15 cm deep. Wear gloves if your skin is sensitive because daffodil sap can cause irritation. Mark the dormant clump before later planting work to prevent accidental damage. Inspect leaves during spring and remove debris that could trap excessive moisture around new shoots. If a stem bends after heavy rain, support it gently without tightening the tie. During summer, mark the bulb location to prevent accidental damage when adding new plants. The following fall, renew only a thin mulch layer if the site is exposed to rapid temperature changes. Check drainage after major storms and correct nearby runoff before winter rather than moving an established clump unnecessarily.
Container growing
A garden,within reach.
Choose a container at least 30 cm wide and 25 to 30 cm deep with several unobstructed drainage holes. Fill it with a light container mix and keep enough open space for water to drain freely. Plant the package bulbs approximately 15 cm deep with their pointed ends up, without allowing them to touch. Water deeply, then maintain moderate moisture until freeze-up. Place the pot in full sun or light partial shade. In very cold regions, protect the container from repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles by insulating it or moving it to a cold, sheltered area; the bulbs still require a chilling period. In spring, water when the surface begins to dry and apply a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer. Remove faded blooms, but retain the foliage until it yellows completely. Reduce watering afterward and keep the pot relatively dry through summer. Repot and separate offsets when the clump becomes crowded or flowering declines. Raise the pot slightly if drainage slows after heavy rainfall. Rotate it each week to keep stems balanced. Because bicolour flowers become heavy when wet, shelter the container from strong gusts and support only stems that need help. Divide the planting when bulbs crowd the pot. Refresh compacted growing medium during repotting, remove any soft bulbs, and return healthy offsets to the same planting depth.
Bloom and dimensions
Its place,in your garden.
Mature height
40 cm (16 in.)
Bloom period
‘Electrus’ Daffodil produces one upward-facing 10 cm flower with broad white petals and a rich orange-pink corona split to the base and marked green at the centre in mid-spring. Stems reach approximately 40 cm (16 in.) above upright green foliage. Grouped planting strengthens the colour effect. Cool spring weather can extend the display. Remove faded flowers, then allow all foliage to yellow completely so every bulb rebuilds reserves for the following year.
Garden associations
In goodcompany.
Companion plants
Pair ‘Electrus’ Daffodil with low spring plants that enjoy bright light and freely drained soil. Crocuses, blue grape hyacinths, small botanical tulips, and hardy primroses complement the white, orange-pink, and green tones without hiding the large collar flower with a fully split corona. Later-emerging perennials can discreetly cover yellowing foliage after bloom. Avoid vigorous ground covers that could smother new shoots and species requiring constantly wet soil. Leave enough open space for gradual naturalizing and future division. In a container, limit companions to a few compact plants with similar needs for light, drainage, and seasonal moisture. This combination keeps the flowers visible while allowing every leaf to receive light until it yellows completely.
Frequently asked questions
Your questions,answered.
When should ‘Electrus’ daffodil bulbs be planted?
Plant the bulbs in fall, ideally from September until the ground freezes. Planting reasonably early allows roots to develop before winter without encouraging excessive top growth. Choose full sun or light partial shade and soil that drains quickly. Set each bulb 15 cm deep with the pointed end up and leave 12 cm between bulbs. Water deeply after planting. If autumn remains unusually dry, check moisture once or twice before freeze-up, but avoid any watering that leaves the soil saturated. Mark the location if later fall work could disturb the newly planted group. In regions with mild autumn weather, wait until the soil has cooled before planting to reduce the chance of premature top growth before winter.
What light does ‘Electrus’ daffodil need?
Full sun encourages sturdy stems and abundant flowering. Light partial shade is also suitable, especially beneath deciduous trees that allow spring sunlight to reach the bulbs before their canopy expands. Avoid dense all-day shade because it can reduce flower production. The location should also provide air movement and quick drainage after rain. In a container, rotate the pot weekly if stems lean strongly toward the light. After flowering, the leaves still require light until they yellow completely because they are rebuilding reserves for the next season. Watch the display over several years: a marked decline can indicate that nearby shrubs now create too much shade. Prune them when appropriate without disturbing the dormant bulbs, or divide and relocate part of an overcrowded clump after foliage matures.
How should ‘Electrus’ daffodil be watered?
Water deeply after planting to settle soil around the bulbs. In spring, maintain light, even moisture during growth and flowering whenever rainfall is insufficient. Allow the surface to begin drying before watering again because standing water promotes bulb rot. Direct water toward the soil rather than the bicolour flowers. Gradually reduce watering when foliage yellows, then keep the bulbs relatively dry during summer dormancy. Containers dry more quickly than garden beds, but their saucers should always be emptied. Check moisture before watering instead of following a rigid calendar. During cool or rainy weather, lengthen the interval between waterings. After a major storm, check that runoff has not created a wet pocket around the planting and correct drainage before adding more water.
Can ‘Electrus’ grow in a container?
Yes. Choose a container at least 30 cm wide and 25 to 30 cm deep with several drainage holes. Plant the package bulbs approximately 15 cm deep with their pointed ends up in a light container mix. Water deeply, then maintain moderate moisture without leaving water in the saucer. In very cold climates, insulate the pot or move it to a cold, sheltered place to limit repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. The bulbs still require winter chilling. Allow the foliage to yellow completely before reducing watering for summer dormancy. Raise the container slightly if drainage slows, and rotate it when stems lean toward one direction of light. Repot crowded bulbs after the foliage dries, keeping only firm, healthy offsets.
What should happen to the foliage after flowering?
Leave every leaf in place until it yellows completely and pulls away easily. For several weeks after flowering, the foliage captures light and rebuilds the bulb’s reserves for the following year. Do not braid, tie, or cut leaves while they are green. Remove only the stem carrying the faded flower to prevent seed formation. Later-emerging perennials can discreetly hide the foliage during this period. Once the leaves are dry, clear them away and reduce watering for summer dormancy. This simple step is essential for reliable repeat flowering. If the clump becomes crowded, use this dormant period to separate offsets and promptly replant firm bulbs at their usual depth in freely draining soil.