Orange tomato 'Flammée' organic

Name: Orange tomato 'Flammée' organic
Brand: Tourne-sol
SKU: SL353-a
Price: 4.49 CAD
Availability: OutOfStock

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Seeds Solanaceae

Organic seeds

Tourne-sol

Solanum lycopersicum

Common nameOrange tomato ‘Flammée’

FamilySolanaceae

GenusSolanum

Specieslycopersicum

TypeSeeds

Botanical nameSolanum lycopersicum

Reproducible seedsYes

Quantity per packet50 seeds

Orange tomato 'Flammée' organic (Solanum lycopersicum), also known as ‘Jaune Flamme’, is an indeterminate French heirloom. Tourne-Sol describes this small orange tomato as sweet, prolific, and one of the farm’s new favourites. The packet contains 50 organic, open-pollinated seeds, with official maturity listed at approximately 75 days from transplanting. Cornell notes that deep-orange fruit generally weighs 55 to 85 g and resembles a large apricot in size and shape. Clusters continue developing until frost when long vines are carried on a tall cage or trellis throughout the Canadian growing season.

Sow indoors 6 mm deep in fine starting mix approximately six weeks before planting. Maintain 24 to 29°C until emergence, then move seedlings under intense light. Pot them on after true leaves appear and harden plants for one week. Transplant outdoors only after the last frost, once soil and nights are suitably warm. Choose full sun and fertile, freely drained soil, then space plants 60 to 75 cm apart. Install a tall cage, sturdy stake, or trellis immediately to support indeterminate growth and keep clusters clean. Bury part of each stem while keeping the lowest healthy leaves above the soil surface.

Water deeply at soil level and maintain consistent moisture, then mulch after the ground warms. Tie stems with soft loops and remove leaves touching the soil. Harvest when tomatoes are evenly deep orange, slightly yielding, and easy to release. Their sweet-tart flavour suits salads, platters, drying, and roasted dishes. Pick every few days to reduce cluster weight. Before the first frost, bring developed fruit indoors to finish colouring in a temperate, ventilated location. Inspect foliage regularly for spots, wilting, and caterpillars, and promptly remove damaged or diseased material. Keep plant labels visible and supports securely anchored after strong wind.

In the garden

Exposure: Full sun, at least 6 direct hours
Life cycle: Warm-season annual; tender perennial grown as an annual

Sowing guide

Sowing & germination

Sowing depth

6 mm (1/4 in)

Spacing / density

60 to 75 cm (24 to 30 in) between plants

Germination temperature

24 to 29°C (75 to 85°F)

Germination time

Approximately 5 to 10 days in warm starting mix

Sowing period

Indoors, 6 weeks before planting; transplant after the last frost

Propagation

Seed

Growing method

Sow one seed per cell 6 mm deep in sterile, light starting mix approximately six weeks before planting. Keep the medium moist but not saturated and maintain 24 to 29°C until emergence. Remove the dome as soon as seedlings appear, then provide bright light for 14 to 16 hours and slightly cooler temperatures. Pot seedlings individually after the first true leaves. If plants become pale, feed at low strength. Harden them for one week by gradually increasing sun and wind exposure. Transplant after the last frost into warmed soil, burying the stem up to the first healthy leaves. Space plants 75 to 90 cm apart. Install tall support at planting time, water at soil level, and mulch once the ground is warm. Guide stems weekly and harvest when fruit becomes evenly deep orange and the fruit yields slightly. Remove weeds while seedlings establish. Once plants begin flowering, gently shake the support at midday to encourage pollen release. Inspect leaf undersides and hand-pick the first caterpillars. Sanitize scissors after cutting suspicious plants and avoid working among wet foliage. From fruit set onward, follow tomato-fertilizer directions without exceeding the label. Maintain one main stem where space is limited, or several well-supported stems inside a large cage. Check ties after wind and loosen any loop that presses into expanding stems.

Soil and care

Soil & care

Care level

Intermediate; support and regular monitoring required

Watering

Water deeply at soil level when the upper few centimetres begin to dry. Maintain moisture as consistently as possible during flowering and fruit expansion; swings between drought and excess water encourage cracking and blossom-end rot. A soaker hose or drip line keeps foliage drier. Apply mulch after soil warms, empty saucers, and check large containers daily during hot weather. Water early in the day and avoid small, frequent surface applications.

Soil type

Choose fertile, loose, well-drained soil rich in mature organic matter, with slightly acidic pH around 6 to 6.8. Incorporate compost before planting according to needs shown by a soil test. A raised bed helps where ground remains cold or wet in spring. Avoid waterlogged areas and sites where diseased tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants grew recently. Rotate away from the nightshade family whenever practical.

Fertilization

Base fertilization on a soil test. Incorporate mature compost before planting, then use balanced vegetable fertilizer according to its label. After fruit set, tomato feed with moderate nitrogen is preferable to a high-nitrogen application. Excess nitrogen produces abundant foliage and delays fruit. Water after feeding, never place concentrated fertilizer against the stem, and reduce applications late in the season. Container plants need smaller, more regular doses because nutrients leave through drainage water.

Seasonal care

Six weeks before planting, sow indoors in warm mix and move seedlings under intense light immediately after emergence. Pot them on when true leaves develop and rotate containers to maintain straight stems. One week before planting, gradually harden plants to sun, wind, and cooler nights. After the last frost, transplant deeply into warmed soil and immediately install a tall cage, stakes, or trellis. Through summer, tie new stems with soft loops, water consistently at soil level, and keep mulch from touching the stem. Remove leaves resting on soil and monitor for leaf spots, wilting, caterpillars, and damaged fruit. Sanitize tools between suspicious plants. Harvest orange tomatoes every few days. Late in the season, remove new flowers that cannot mature, gather developed fruit before frost, and discard diseased remains instead of placing them in home compost. Clean supports before storing them. If fruit develops a dark, sunken patch at the blossom end, stabilize watering instead of automatically adding calcium without a soil test. After prolonged rain, ventilate shelters and inspect new spots before touching neighbouring plants. During extreme heat, light afternoon shade cloth may reduce stress without blocking morning sun. Record every confirmed disease so a different crop family can occupy that area next year. Save seed only from vigorous plants and symptom-free fruit. Wash hands and tools after handling diseased material, and never move infected soil into clean containers. throughout the season.

Container growing

Recommended pot size

One plant per stable 30 to 40 L container, at least 40 cm deep

Because ‘Flammée’ orange tomato is indeterminate, choose a very stable 30 to 40 L container at least 40 cm deep for one plant. Several large drainage holes are essential. Fill it with quality vegetable potting mix amended with mature compost, leaving watering space at the rim. Install a tall cage or firmly anchored trellis before planting. Position the container in the warmest, sunniest location sheltered from wind. Bury part of the stem and water thoroughly. Maintain consistent moisture thereafter, sometimes checking daily in hot weather, without leaving water in the saucer. Feed with tomato fertilizer according to its label once fruit begins forming. Tie stems, remove leaves resting on the mix, and harvest frequently. Rotate only small pots; a large supported container should remain stationary. Before frost, bring developed fruit indoors rather than moving the entire plant. Mulch the warm potting mix without touching the stem. After heavy rain, confirm that drainage holes remain open and that the container is not leaning under trellis weight. Inspect leaf undersides, pick every ripe fruit, and promptly remove split or mouldy tomatoes. Label the cultivar clearly when planning to save seed. At the end of the season, clean the cage and replace the mix instead of reusing soil that held a diseased plant. Keep the container away from roof runoff that could saturate it during storms.

Size, flowering & harvest

Mature height

Approximately 1.5 m or taller with support

Width / spread

Approximately 50 to 75 cm depending on training

Foliage color

Green

Foliage type

Deciduous; killed by frost

Growth rate

Vigorous in warm weather; approximately 75 days from transplanting

Growth habit

Indeterminate, vining, and branching

Edible parts

Ripe fruit

Fruiting

Clusters of small, round tomatoes develop successively on indeterminate stems. Fruit weighing 55 to 85 g ripens to deep orange with balanced sweet-tart flavour. Allow about 75 days from transplanting, depending on warmth and light. Harvest when colour is even, the tomato releases readily, and it yields slightly to gentle pressure. Consistent moisture helps limit splitting near maturity. Pick every few days and bring developed fruit indoors before frost.

Days to maturity

Approximately 75 days from transplanting

Harvest

Approximately 75 days after transplanting; deep orange, slightly yielding, and easy to release

Garden associations

Companion plants & uses

Companion plants

Basil, parsley, lettuce, radishes, onions, and bush beans can share the area when every plant receives sufficient sun, air, water, and nutrients. Position short crops on the sunny side and keep the tomato base accessible for watering. These combinations mainly organize the bed efficiently; they do not prevent pests or diseases on their own. Avoid crowding other nightshade crops around the plant because they share several problems and make rotation more difficult. Leave clear access to the trellis for tying and harvesting.

Garden use

Place ‘Flammée’ orange tomato at the back of a sunny bed or along a north-south trellis so its long stems do not deprive shorter crops of light. Install support before or at planting to avoid injuring roots later. Leave 75 to 90 cm between plants and provide an aisle wide enough to tie stems, inspect both leaf surfaces, and harvest small clusters without damage. Organic mulch applied after soil warms reduces splash and stabilizes moisture. Group tomatoes by watering needs without creating an overly dense mass of foliage. Rotate with crops outside the nightshade family whenever space permits. A low herb border may attract a range of insects, but it does not replace support, spacing, or disease monitoring. Remove fallen fruit and suspicious leaves promptly. Keep plant labels visible so blue-purple and red seed-saving fruit remains correctly identified. To compare performance, grow two plants in separate positions and record the first flower and first ripe-fruit dates. Do not remove every side shoot at once; light pruning retains enough foliage to feed fruit and protect it from sunscald. As clusters become heavy, add support beneath each one. Side netting may reduce animal damage without blocking access to flowers. Position irrigation lines before laying mulch and mark them clearly to prevent accidental cuts. each week.

Recipe idea

From garden to table

Thyme-roasted Flammée tomatoes: heat the oven to 200°C. Wash 500 g ripe orange tomatoes, halve them, and place them in a baking dish. Add 30 mL olive oil, two sliced garlic cloves, 5 mL thyme, 2 mL salt, and black pepper. Toss and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until edges colour and juices bubble. Serve over pasta, grilled bread, or white beans. Beware of steam. Refrigerate leftovers within two hours and use them within three or four days. This recipe may be frozen, but it is not designed for room-temperature canning. Use clean utensils and discard any mouldy tomato before cooking. For a warm salad, add the still-hot roasted tomatoes to drained lentils and baby spinach. Toss immediately before serving so leaves soften without becoming limp. Cool any remaining portion quickly in a shallow container. Add fresh herbs after roasting to preserve their aroma. Keep the cooking juices as part of the dressing, tasting before adding extra acid or salt.

Frequently asked questions

When and how should ‘Flammée’ tomato be sown?

Start seed indoors approximately six weeks before the planned planting date. Place one seed per cell 6 mm deep in sterile, lightly moist mix. Maintain 24 to 29°C until emergence, generally within five to ten days, then remove the dome and move seedlings under bright light for 14 to 16 hours daily. Slightly cooler temperatures after germination create sturdier stems. Pot seedlings individually when the first true leaves appear. Rotate pots, water from below when needed, and feed lightly if plants become pale. Harden them gradually for one week. Transplant outdoors only after the last frost into warmed soil because this tender tomato is killed by frost. Install support at planting time and water every root ball thoroughly.

Does ‘Flammée’ tomato need support?

Yes. Tourne-Sol describes ‘Flammée’ orange tomato as indeterminate: the main stem continues extending and forming new fruit clusters until frost. Install a tall cage, sturdy stake, or trellis at planting time before roots fill the surrounding soil. Support approximately 1.5 m or taller is more suitable than a small cage. Tie stems with broad, soft loops arranged in a figure eight to prevent rubbing. Check ties weekly and loosen any that mark the stem. Keeping foliage and fruit above the ground improves air circulation, simplifies harvest, and reduces damage. Anchor support especially well for plants in containers or windy locations. Guide stems while they remain flexible instead of bending older growth sharply.

How can a ripe ‘Flammée’ tomato be recognized?

Watch colour first: fruit changes from green to even deep orange at full maturity. A tomato ready to pick releases readily and yields slightly to very gentle pressure without becoming soft. Use approximately 75 days from transplanting as a guide rather than a guaranteed date. Warmth, light, and transplant stress change the schedule. Compare several tomatoes within one cluster before picking. Use clean scissors or bend the stem gently without pulling neighbouring fruit. Harvest every few days and bring developed tomatoes indoors before the first frost so they can finish colouring in a temperate, ventilated location. Check stored fruit daily and discard anything that begins deteriorating.

Can ‘Flammée’ tomato be grown in a container?

Yes, but its indeterminate habit needs considerable space and very strong support. Choose a stable 30 to 40 L container at least 40 cm deep with several large holes. Fill it with rich, freely drained potting mix, then install a tall cage or anchored trellis before planting. Place the pot in full sun away from strong wind. Maintain consistent moisture; in hot weather, check the mix daily and water deeply as the surface begins to dry. Always empty the saucer. Once fruit forms, apply tomato fertilizer according to its label. Tie stems as they rise and keep leaves away from the potting mix. A large supported pot should not be moved frequently because its weight and trellis make handling unsafe. Harvest often to reduce weight on the stems.

Are Flammée seeds organic, heirloom, and open-pollinated?

Yes. Tourne-Sol presents this packet of 50 seeds as organic and open-pollinated and describes ‘Flammée’ as a French heirloom. Cornell and Rutgers also classify it as an open-pollinated heirloom. To save seed, choose several fully ripe, healthy, typical deep-orange tomatoes. Scoop seeds and gel into a labelled container, add a little water, and allow brief fermentation. Add water, remove floating debris, then rinse the heavy seed remaining at the bottom. Spread it in one layer and dry completely. Tomatoes are mainly self-fertile, but occasional crossing remains possible. Separate cultivars when purity matters, then store dry seed in cool, dark conditions with cultivar and year.